The Divine Journey - Visit to Hemkund and Badri Vishal
Date 2 -8 November 13, Page 68
By: Kulveen Narula
With bags full of excitement, anxiety, anticipation and joy for discovering the unknown trail we arrived at the commencement point - Devbhoomi Rishikesh couple of years ago. The sun had set, we rushed to our hotel to check in and then immediately headed for the banks of the Holy Ganges where the evening aarti had started…. the river was flowing with its full might towards the plains to impart its blessings to the people in various forms -fertile plains, water for industry, etc.There is a massive idol of Shiva erected in the midst of the Ganga in Rishikesh which added to the tranquil environment created by the chants sung in praise of Ganga. Diyas were floated on the holy waters and a whiff of mist floated above the surface – a truly breathtaking experience.
The ascent to Hemkund Sahib starts from Rishikesh. We were advised to leave before dawn, so we started our
journey early after offering our prayers at the local gurdwara. As we kept wending our way through the hills, nature started to reveal its multifarious beauty. It was August, monsoon time, so everything was fresh and lush green. All the elements came together-- the magnificent peaks kissing the skies, clouds hugging the lofty trees, the river streaking down from in between the peaks.But all in absolute harmony, the key to beauty and bliss.
On the trail of the Ganga we moved upward, and saw many Prayags (confluence of two rivers). First is Devprayag, where Ganga gets its name. This confluence is the meeting point of Alaknanda that comes from Badrinath and Bhagirathi. Later we came upon KarnPrayag, VishnuPrayag, …. The region after Piparkot is prone to landslides during rainy season and the local drivers are good at traversing it safely.
In the late evening we reached our second major stop - Gobind Ghat, which is 30 km before Badrinath. We stayed at a decent guest house right on the banks of Alaknanda - and our room faced another confluence, of Alaknanda and Hemganga. The gushing waters of the rivers were roaring, surging down, rolling over the big boulders on the way.
Next morning, after taking the blessings of the Almighty from Gurdwara Gobind Ghat we started our 13 km trek on horsebacks to Gobind dham. The initial ascent was easy, but soon the weather started changing and the trail got steeper.
One had to fully trust the horses and listen to their masters who are very well accustomed to each step of the pathway. The winding trek was dotted by dhabas that served lip smacking hot paranthas and Maggi noodles and of
course the welcome hot cups of tea in the cold weather that keep the yearning burning to see more. We broke for tea at a shack at a beautiful location - right on the banks of the gurgling Hemganga that descends from the holy pools of Hemkund. Rain became heavy, cooling the weather even more, but we had to keep going so as to reach the destination by evening. Eventually we reached Gobind Dham fairly drenched. Hunting for lodging was another task. After checking couple of places, we opted for Hotel Kuber which had clean and spacious rooms.
We had earlier planned to walk as much as we could, which while carrying weight in the high altitude is not easy. But we had started late, so horses were the best and the fastest option to reach Hemkund sahib. This trek was the steepest of all - for in a 6 km climb we had to reach 3,000 ft higher. The view got exceedingly amazing and breathtaking. One is surrounded by countless waterfalls, flowers, lofty mountains, naturally carved boulders- -all reciting the poetry of nature. Every breath you take is pure air and you remember nothing but the creator who has blessed us with such beauty.
As you approach the divine destination – Hemkund Sahib – you start hearing the distant holy chants as well as glimpses of a patch full of Brahm Kamal, a rare, special lotus which is considered heavenly. You are simply left awestruck. Then you behold Hemkund (literally, a pool of ice), which is pure, godly, astonishingly beautiful and surrounded by seven majestic peaks. You just want to absorb in as much as possible of the tranquility in a few hours as after 2 pm no one is allowed to stay back.
Hemkund Sahib is dedicated to the 10th Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh. We soon rushed to take a holy dip in the tranquil waters as it is said that immediately after reaching and before letting your pulse go normal one should do the same, because after settling in the cold surroundings, it is difficult for the body. The holy dip was absolutely an incredible experience – relaxing, rejuvenating and it sets in a new spark inside you. Next, we went in for the darshan at the gurdwara, which is a blissful experience;and had khichdi (lentils and rice) and tea served as langar.
We headed back to reach Gobindghat before dark. Here man has to follow the rules of nature and not his own.
The descent was more tricky and slippery. To keep balance on horseback was tough, so we decided to get
down and walk. Walking was very slow because we were tired and oxygen thin in at that altitude. Finally after a three hour trek, we reached Gobind Ghat. I dragged myself to the gurudwara to thank God for letting me have the darshan of Hemkund. After popping painkillers, we had a peaceful sleep.
Another exciting day lay ahead. Carrying packed lunch and some juice we left for the Valley of Flowers - a World Heritage site. The valley is in full bloom from July to September every year. This is a vast expanse of an entire valley protected for its flora and fauna, where even cattle are not allowed to graze. Spreading across 87 sq km, its slopes are covered with blankets of alpine flowers, creepers, climbers, glaciers and River Pushpavati cutting across glaciers and surrounded by beautiful waterfalls. Came the hunger pangs. I discovered a mighty boulder, and went on top. Beholding the nature’s best served on my platter which no money can buy, I had the most memorable lunch of my lifetime.This is El Dorado! Wherever you look, there is a slope full of white flowers, then pink, red, purple and so on. You walk on a narrow pathway surrounded by these pristine colors of nature.
Next morning we proceeded towards Badrinath or Badri Vishal (that's how it is known in Uttarakhand) . Horseback is the best transportation but this time we selected bigger and healthier of the species, to feel more stable and
safer. Taking lots of pictures and videos en route, and following Hemganga, we reached Gobindghat at lunch time. While our empty stomachs were being refueled we came to know that the path to Badrinath was blocked due to a
landslide, hence darshan was not possible and lots of groups had come back disappointed. But just when we were hiring a cab for Rishikesh,the news came that the road had been cleared. Thus by the grace of Almighty we were lucky or destined to get the darshan.
Badrinath, located on the banks of a gushing Alaknanda, is one of the prime Hindu shrines or 'dham' where Lord
Vishnu did his penance under the badri tree. Outside the main shrine is the Mahalaxmi temple. Before darshan,
devotees take holy dip in Taptkund, a hot water spring of temperature above 55 degrees Centigrade, another natural wonder in the biting cold surroundings. The bathing area has a separate section for women; the water is quite hot for the body to bear but is believed to havetherapeutic values, so it attracts many suffering from ailments to come here. After the bath, we had a quick darshan of Lord Vishnu. A priest we met there spoke good English, thus able to brief foreign visitors.
All our goals were accomplished and before dusk we drove to Joshimath. When it becomes dark roads are barricaded to block vehicles both for safety and to not disturb the wildlife with flashing headlights. After spending two nights in Joshimath and a day visit to Auli – a skiing destination - we headed back to Delhi. Memories of having beholden the best on earth bring a radiant smile on our face even today.
The author, seen at Valley of Flowers, is communications
Consultant based in Ahmedabad.
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